Amid the peaking summer heat, as traffic below advances at a pace enough to exasperate a snail, and as constructions nearby set off racket, a heart blooms and beauty prevails. It is an entirely different world at the core of the capital town. Its popular landmark, the National Memorial Choeten, is adorned with plants and […]

“Bill collectors should be more eager about the three-day break between May 30 and June 1.” It was a casual remark that sparked off on the eve of the national housing and population census among a few television cable operators and municipal support staff gnawing off near one of the many small paan shops on […]

It is said that an umdze (head of prayer ceremony), looking over rows of monks chanting prayers at the Punakha dzong, one warm summer day, noticed several young monks seated at different rows, eyes closed, lips in sync and continuing to sway rhythmically with the rest. At the umdze’s single loud clap, a few monks […]

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